The girl is standing beside a bench strewn with leather, knives and paper. Her brow is furrowed with concentration, lips pursed, as she deftly follows the thin lines that dance their way across the dyed hide in her hand. The light is dim and the air is musty, tainted by an odor that harkens back to a time before shopping malls, a time when each store´s bounty was not churned out by an unknown´s hands but instead painstakingly created, borne of passion, time and skill. The girl is making shoes, art.
Shoe making today is a heavily manufactured process where the various stages of production are divided in a factory and shared by a multitude of workers; more often than not, the shoes we buy in mega stores are the result of industrial sweatshops in countries such as China. Originally, however, this process was undertaken by just one – known as a cordwainer – who would oversee the entire production and perform the various 68 to 390 steps themselves, along with some 15 different techniques.
Enter Padre Nuestro, a tiny store in Ñuñoa that is outfitted by just one man and his apprentice, a design alumni now pursuing shoemaking. She has been training for four months but the apprenticeship will take her several years.
A pair of shoes is the result of an arduous process. First shoes are designed, followed by the preparation of lasts and the cutting and stamping of the leather. The pieces are then dyed, sewn, fitted to the last to form for several weeks, and finally assembled. The process doesn´t end here, as the sole has to be hammered into shape and the shoe then has to be ´finished´ which may include burnishing, rasping, smoothing, and other techniques.
At Padre Nuestro, your feet are measured and a mold is found that best matches your foot. Over the course of around one month, your shoes are handmade by this two-person team, with the end result a pair of shoes that have been made for no-one else but you.
There is currently a waiting list of around two months at Padre Nuestro. The store sells shoes for men only.
Photos reproduced with permission from Padre Nuestro
The Nitty Gritty
Address: Tegualda 1517, local 1, Factoria Tegualda, Ñuñoa. Metro Santa Isabel
Tip: while you are here, pop next door to Silvestre Bistro to take advantage of the Wild Food Movement that has come to Santiago! Great prices, ambiance, service and delicious food!! Barrio Italia is a fantastic place to go shopping, plus you are supporting local small businesses and keeping traditions – just like at Padre Nustro – – alive.
I’m writing to you from a wet and blustery Santiago day, in the heart of Chile.
It’s very rarely wet here, so the rain is cause for both celebration and relief, with a bit of horror thrown in at the potential chaos that might arise.
Santiago is not a beautiful city. To the far east it is green and spacious while the “Sanhatten” area is all modern skyscrapers and grass. The centre is chocka with historic buildings but elsewhere the outskirts are a colourful shambles, a mixture of peeling paint, potholes, graffitti and sopaipilla stands.
Sopaipilla is perhaps the only streetfood I would recommend to you. Chile does not have the gastronomic delights of say, Lima, but the sopaipilla is a fast and filling option when you get off the metro and need something cheap and hot to fill the gap. Top it with spicy sauces such as chilli or mustard, or something tame like ketchup (in the GREEN bottle!).
For shopping you won’t find many bargains unless you visit a market. La Vega is a sprawling one that extends into various buildings in the area of Patronato, where you can pick up cheap imported clothes alongside ingredients from Asia. If you want a shopping mall, head to the Costanera Centre in Providencia because it’s also beneath the city’s new lavish symbol, the phallic (aren’t they all?) Costanera Tower. For antiques and unique finds visit Avenida Italia in Nunoa, which is also the best place to drink a hot chocolate, order a REAL coffee or eat cake. I highly recommend Pasteleria Lalaleelu by metro Santa Isabel – there is even a cake tasting option.
For something a bit different, explore the General Cemetery in Recoleta. Take your camera too because this place has an energy all of its own and walking around it could take you all day as you lost yourself amongst the tombs.
For eating out you have a few options. At the high end is Bocanariz, Borago, Mestizo and Astrid y Gaston, but you can also enjoy a meal for less, such as at Tiramisu or even at one of the more budget options. Chileans swear by Fuente Alemana or one of the tiny restaurants located inside La Vega Chica. Many places serve a set menu known as a colacion for lunch, and some of these cost as little as CLP$2500.
In terms of what to see, you should not miss the highly acclaimed Museo Pre Colombino nor the historic Plaza de Armas. A visit to Barrio Concha y Toro will not disappoint either, particularly if you coincide it with dinner at Zully, set inside the restored house of Chilean poet Vicente Huidobro.
Visitors usually bypass Santiago after a few days and head further afield, to tourist sights such as Patagonia or San Pedro de Atacama, but there are things to see closer to home. Valparaiso rewards visitors willing to walk, while nearby Olmue has a wealth of national parks and outdoors adventures. The Cajon del Maipo is the holiday hotspot for day tripping Santiaguinos and it is one of the easiest places to visit the Andes. In summer, a drive along the Embalse el Yeso is unforgettable.
Pomaire is another stop worth making particularly if you want to buy souvenirs and gifts. This small town is famous for its clay artisans who you can see making Chile’s ubiquitous bowls throughout the village (cheapest places to buy are around the edges of Pomaire).
I can’t say that living in Santiago is always easy but for the traveller it makes the perfect gateway to South America. It’s easy to travel with plenty of sights within close range of each other and the food scene is improving rapidly. This is the place I have called home for three years and raised a family, and it is one of the safest and easiest destinations to travel with children. This city will reward all visitors whether for just a day or for longer stays. Viva Santiago!
For airport transfers, guided tours, chauffeur service or help settling in, please contact Helen at Miles & Smiles Santiago. Phone 56 9 91482832 or visit their Facebook page: http://www.facebook/milesandsmilessantiago/
I love taking photos, and anyone who is friends with me on Facebook or Instagram will know that! I really enjoy looking back because, as the years pass, it can be hard to remember the million and one sights and emotions that are experienced when you travel. Here are my favorite travel shots I have taken – may they awaken the travel lust within you!
On the way to Embalse el Yeso, in Cajon del Maipo, CHILE
View from Frutillar, CHILE
ValparaisoShooting stars in the UFO capital of CHILE, CochiguazOn the outskirts of Puerto Varas, CHILECute faces near Ovalle, CHILE
The beauty of this shot couldn’t distract us from the unsavory conditions these people were living in, Chiloe, CHILEThere was something about this little girl in Huanchaco, PERU, that made me want to photograph her. She had so much pinache for a toddler, and amongst the bustle of the wharf she just seemed to ooze characterReligious progression in Lima’s Plaza de Armas, PERUThis was taken in the famous cathedral in Lima’s Plaza de Armas. I had a really strange feeling the whole time I walked around – like I had to get out! This photos encapsulates exactly that. PERUFrom that same church in Lima, PERU. I like the blurry, dark quality in the photo.This is one of my favorite photos of all time. In Huanchaco, PERU, we stumbled upon a colorful parade full of school children. While they laughed and piroutted, this person was carrying on a normal conversation, decked out in finery, in front of a stunning backdrop.Making dosas in Cochin, INDIAAfter arguing with a local that these birds were not eagles but vultures, I snapped this. Orcha, INDIAOne of my strongest memories of India is of the trains. Nothing shows you the real India like travelling on trains, especially alongside friendly locals who like to wiggle your toes while you sleep on the bunks. This is also the best place to drink chai and eat! INDIALooking out over sprawling Mumbai, INDIAI wonder what these children are up to now. This was taken after our presence in Rola, Gujarat, emptied an entire school!! INDIAThe holy city – Varanasi, INDIA.Cochin, INDIAA big walk around the spectacular village of Hampi, INDIA, brought this spectaular shot.Hill station near Ooty, INDIAVarkala, INDIA. The most beautiful spot to just stay and stay and stay …Jodhpur, one of my favorite cities in INDIAWatching the sunrise in Hampi, INDIA
Annapurna Ciruit, NEPALDetouring from the track, Annapurna Circuit, NEPALAnnapurna Circuit, NEPALHonestly, I don’t remember too much from this day – the second to last of the ascent on the Annapurna Circuit, NEPAL. It was so intense and actually much more difficult than the final day walking up.
Walking to the nothernmost point of NEW ZEALAND, Cape ReingaHaving a rest, Cape Reina, NEW ZEALAND
My home town, Kerikeri NEW ZEALAND, also the site of NZ’s oldest buildings!
Cruising around the Hokianga and getting caught behind a cow traffic jam is a common occurence in rural NEW ZEALAND
View from my house in Kerikeri, NEW ZEALAND
Where my parents live and where Emilio was raised for his first 9 months, Totara North, NEW ZEALAND
Stonehenge, ENGLAND. I like that this photo seems so dark, because there is something really strange about this place.
At Miles & Smiles Santiago, our goal is simple: to provide a top quality service that is friendly and safe while assisting you to get the very most out of your time in Chile. How to do this? Firstly, we show you the real Chile, divulging secrets that only a native can know. Secondly, we support the community around us, keeping business local and always working with small businesses. Thirdly we continually give back, sending a percentage of our profits to help grassroot organizations and initiatives that are working to keep Chile clean, safe and beautiful. Our business takes social responsibility very seriously – just as much as we care about customer satisfaction – and so we pride ourselves as being accessible for everyone. Whether you are traveling with infants or teens, pets or strays, are a senior citizen, spring chicken, amateur photographer, wildlife lover, fond of the vino, or in need of additional assistance, we work to accommodate your needs – and everything in between!
THE VEHICLE:
Car is a Chevrolet Orlando with capacity for SIX. That’s four with luggage or 6 with hand luggage. It is your responsibility to assess whether this arrangement will work for you.
VANS + MINIBUS available with advance booking for tours.
Bike rack/ski chains/1 forward facing carseat (toddler)/1 rear-facing (infant)/booster car seats available upon request.
SANTIAGO – AIRPORT TRANSFERS 6am-12am*
Santiago centro CLP $19,000
Providencia CLP$20,000
Las Condes/La Reina/Ñuñoa//Lo Barnechea/Vitacura/La Reina/Puente Alto – Airport CLP$25,000.
AIRPORT – SANTIAGO TRANSFERS 12am-6am*
CLP $26,0)0
CITY TRANSFERS
* Santiago-Valparaiso transfer: CLP$65,000
* Santiago-Vina del Mar transfer: CLP$70,000
Tours
We offer a finely crafted selection of private tours that we believe showcase not only the best of Chile, but the REAL Chile too! Inquire about our options around: Santiago (including Recoleta!), Valparaiso, Wineries (Casablanca, Colchagua and Santiago), La Campana National Park, Aguas San Ramon, Rio Clarillo, Pacific Vistas Coastal Drive, Viña del Mar, Olmue + Alpaca Farm, Pomaire, Isla Negra, Cajon del Maipo and more.
Other Services
* House Hunting Santiago – we book the appointments and drive you to them. Translation and interpreting assistance available.
* Welcome Chile – it can be hard when you first arrive in a new city. We help you navigate your new neighborhood, assist you with setting up a bank account or BIP! card, and let you in on all the secrets only locals know.
* Metropolitana Region Driver and/without Car Rental Includes petrol and road tolls. Other regions available upon request.
Bahai Temple
How We Give Back
As part of our aim to be ethically responsible, we continually give back into the community. Whether by always giving business to small providers, planting trees, donating a percentage of our profit to good causes or by stepping up to support the people after a disaster, we are continually thinking of ways to be socially responsible.
Some ways we have done this:
Starting the volunteer organization, Organizacion Ojos Abiertos, that worked in a low income Santiago suburb doing art, dance and English tuition from kindergarten up
Setting up the Meals & Smiles venture to help new mums and families in need
Planting trees in the zones affected by the 2017 fires, as well as donating supplies
Maintaining small group tours to minimize our impact upon the environment
Always supporting local, small businesses
Reusing, recycling and upcycling wherever we can
Utilizing public transport, walking or biking whenever possible
Using vehicles that use the latest technology to reduce polluting emissions
Regular donations to various charities and initiatives
Who We Are
We are a small family run business led by Luis (Chile) and Helen (New Zealand). Our aim is to share our favorite sights of this beautiful country that we call home, while providing quality customer service that is reliable and safe. We welcome families, pets and lovers of wine, nature, and good food.
Reviews
“We booked Luis for a tour to the Cajon del Maipo. The tour was very good value and Luis was an excellent guide. He speaks fluent English and is knowledgeable about Santiago and the surrounding area. The road was difficult in places, but Luis drove very carefully. I highly recommend this service ” – Chris Rowland, UK
“My friend and I reserved a taxi transfer from Santiago Centro to the Airport at 5:00 AM through Miles and Smiles and could not have been more pleased. Even though it was super early, Luis was outside (bonus points for arriving early!) waiting for us when we came down to the street. He was very helpful with our bags and got us to the airport within 25 minutes. I was so impressed with the punctuality and service so early in the morning. I 100% recommend using this service for transfers, tours, anything. Very friendly and very reliable” – Louise Marchica, Chile
“Book an airport pick-up with these guys. Super busy airport and took me at least an hour to get through immigration but when I got through Aurelio was waiting for me with a smile. Very reliable and kept in touch through-out my 26 hour journey!. Would recommend to others” – Rob Davey, Chile
“This is an excellent service. I needed to search for a house in Santiago, but did not have much time, because I still needed to work, and my wife was sick in hospital. Without the help of Luis and Helen, I am not sure how we would have done it. They were super helpful and very flexible. We sent them a list of properties that we were interested in, and they made all the calls and organised all the viewings. Then Luis provided the transport to get around and see them all. As Luis speaks excellent english and spanish, he was able to help with the coordination and communication whenever it was a problem. I had to cancel the first day and then re-schedlule, but they were able to manage it. They were always on time as agreed, and Luis was very knowledgable on how to get around Santiago. We also used them for some airport transfers. An excellent option if you need flexible transport and assistance to get stuff done” – Paul Kay, Australia
“Muy buen servicio!! Fueron a recoger del aeropuerto a los tíos de mi soon to be husband y ellos quedaron muy felices con el servicio. Luis fue muy amable y les explicaba el paisaje mientras iban camino a Vina y les encanto tener esa información” – Carli Ivonne, Chile
“PERFECT Service. Picked up my family on time. which I’m sorry latin america, does not happen very often. safe driversstuck to speed limitno dramas was a taxi service and a wealth of local information of passing regions on their way to vina del mar from santiago airport. Recommend to everybody” – David Midgley, NZ
“Luis was a fantastic driver, we used his services for half a day in Santiago whilst needing to visit various medical clinics. He was very friendly, a safe driver and didn’t mind the long waits. Luis went out of his way talking about the city, buildings and places giving us an insight into Santiago, kind of like our own tour of the city. We would definitely recommend this service! Luis made what was quite a stressful day of rushing about very easy for us. Once again thank you so much!” – Michael O’Leary, NZ
Our website was designed by Mukul Matey. We highly recommend his services.
Restaurants are generally open for lunch (closing around 4pm) and dinner (7pm until late)
If you need to split the bill, ask before you order. Same goes if you have a voucher – speak first or forever hold the peace!
Expect a long wait between dessert and waiter
Do not expect your dirty plates to be cleared until the next course arrives
Tip: ask for the bill when you order to speed things up
The tip (propina) is often included so check before you pay if this is a problem
Waiters usually get paid minimum wage and DO rely on tips.
If you are learning Spanish expect to be BOGGLED by the menu!!
Peruvian restaurants are usually accompanied by loud music
You can find sushi everywhere (pronounched “suchi”
Expect complimentary bread and pebre when you arrive
Ask for the colacion or lunch menu. It’s incredibly economical and usually yum!
Ask for “un vaso de agua” or “agua de la llave” for tapwater to save on the bill – drinks are usually expensive
Try a delicious natural juice because nearly all places offer them.
There are certain unspoken etiquette rules. Cutlery is always used, people rarely ask for doggy bags and sometimes people look at you funny if you ask to try something of theirs.
For a Chilean experience order a pisco sour (or is it Peruvian? haha)
Dining Recommendations
For date night: Zullyin Barrio Concha y Toro. In a word – amazing.
For a family lunch: Mestizoin Parque Bicentennerio or Restaurante El Secreto in the artesenal shopping place of the same name, in Lo Barnechea.
For tourists: Peumayenindiginous fusion food in Bellavista
I read this line in a reading from one of my English classes and I thought how apt it was for my blog. While I have had an overwhelming positive reaction to my posts, I have had a few people who have been negative and have been unable to grasp the point of my words. I have never insinuated that Santiago was perfect, or that all taxistas are honest and all bus drivers unintelligent but I certainly have tried to illuminate the diamonds in the rough and the “angels with dirty faces”.
What can I say? I get as pissed off as everyone else about tiptoeing around bad customer service or dealing with the machista attitude. I hate that the best cheese goes to Spain and that there’s no real milk readily available (find out why here). Above all, I hate that I want to support the strikes that occur regularly in Santiago but find that it’s nearly impossible to have any sympathy for them because life becomes utter chaos.
But what else can I say? That in the ugliest of places you can find gems that glitter like diamonds. They may not be but sometimes they are something far better. I see that in the frazzled security guard at the Registro Civil who did his best to help us today. I see that in the young carabinero who moved me to the front of the Cedula queue today when he wasn’t obligated to. I see that in Luis who sometimes drives me nuts for never doing the dishes, and in Emilio who has developed an affinity for sticking his finger up his nose whenever we have company. I see that in our dog Luna, who once lived on the street and is riddled with cancererous growths but who is sweeter than Babe and Lassie combined. I see that in my suegro who manages to disagree with everything I say but still manages to make Emilio happier than a ray of sunshine. I see it in Jose’s empanadas that are cooked in a dirty oven but taste delicious.
I also find in the most random of places, most evident in the following pictures I never expected to find where I did. So I guess what I am trying to say is this: if you walk around with your eyes wide shut, you may never see the beauty right in front of your eyes.
Where you can find delicious Arabic food in PatronatoWhere you can find wonders in la Vega ChicaWhere political statements are made through artWhere you can eat like a king in the market (mote con huesillo anyone?)Where you can eat cheap, delicious Thai food in FranklinWhere you can encounter festivals in HuechurabaWhere you never know what you might findWorm farm down a Recoleta street? Tick.History down town? checkWhere you can eat delicious empanadas (thanks Jose!)Where cementeries are for family funBest park in Santiago is in Recoleta!Where you can enjoy BBQ during the national holiday celebrationsWhere anyone can be your friend if you take the timeWhere the trees where clothesBreaking social boundaries and playing in unlikely placesRemembering through graffittiWhere you can find unlikely treasuresTirso Molina is one of those treasuresAnd the artists tooWhere even the most dangerous of places have spectacular views.
“Queueing” is a national pastime that is predominately enjoyed anywhere you may need to go to when you have limited time.
When you pay for a service it must be understood that they are doing you a favor, and not the other way around. If a mistake is made, you should apologize profusely and accept all blame (as well as any consequences).
When you eat out, never ask to separate the check.
Taxista’s will always ask you “te acostumbras?”
There are four staples in the Chilean diet: avocado, table salt, olive oil and mayonnaise.
Lunch is dinner, dinner is breakfast, and breakfast is breakfast. That means you will learn to eat alot of bread.
Cakes are not saved for special occasions but are often provided for once.
A “Fuente de Soda” that advertises that it sells pizza is telling you a lie. If by some wierd chance it does, it will be ham and cheese.
Beware the one olive that can be found in most Chilean dishes. Also the random hard-boiled egg.
Always eat your meal/pizza/chips with a knife, fork and serviette.
No bodily function should ever be made in public, be that a yawn/cough/sigh/burp or (heaven forbid) a fart.
Your first visit to a regular Chilean supermarket may make you cry. Especially when you come to the endless aisles of milk in boxes. Sitting on the shelf.
Your kitchen will soon begin to overflow with plastic bags.
Everyone who works in a service-related job makes peanuts and thus expects a tip.
If you have blonde hair, you will likely get stared/tooted at.
If you go anywhere with a man, expect everyone to talk to him instead of you (even if you ask them a question).
Do not expect people to speak English. Even though they know all the words to Taylor Swift and Metallica, and Providencia looks like suburb of Sydney, you are still in Chile!
Always remember to get your fruit and vegetables labelled with their weight and barcode BEFORE you get to the checkout!
Expect everyone to assume that you are from the United States
Do not be taken aback if Chileans refer to themselves as Americans.
Expect buskers on all forms of public transport
Expect said buskers to be extraordinarily amazing (like all Chilean musicians)
Not all pebres are created equal.
Avoid sharing political views
Never travel on public transport with a pushchair between 5-8pm on a weekday
Not all Chileans can dance
Expect to know a teatowel like never before (practicing cueca before 18 September)
Dogs have right of way on footpaths
Expect to visit the doctor more than ever before
Do not assume the metro will be push-chair/disabled-access friendly.
People will assume that you are rich, because you are foreign
You will be expected to have a good job based solely upon your English-language skills. If you break the mold and tell them you do not, they will be flabbergasted and express pain on your behalf
No-one will ever have change for 10,000 peso note. You have 20,000? Hahahahaha!
Everyone has a nana. Sometimes even the nana has a nana.
Beware the word caliente.
Never ever use the word “stupid” when conversing with a Chilean
Don’t ask to take off your shoes when you enter a house – they don’t expect it
Expect shock if you admit you don’t use shoes inside in your house.
You can go to a store and buy a singleslice of cheese
Your hair will never be “normal” when using Santiago showers
If you use heels and don’t work in an office/live in the east, they will hear you in Valpo – no-one wears heels!
Every single person on a metro trip will be using their cell phone
Dogs wear clothes
If it rains, expect chaos.
If you have a television, expect endless news and weather reports
If you find a good hairdresser, guard that information with your life (and share on English Speaking Mums!)
Patronato is not the cheapest place to buy clothes.
Chinese food is considered the ultimate in exotic cuisine.
Strikes and protests are a daily occurence. I wish you speed, dear reader, if you must travel home during one.
Parks and playgrounds make wonderful places to make out with your partner, smoke and enjoy illegal substances.
Being the odd one out 🙂
And a few more based on comments:
Dresses are not required for a night out in Bellavista
Nescafe counts as real coffee
A temblor is not a cause for alarm (rather it makes a nice way to fall asleep)
Tea is served without milk with the bag left in
Expect a paradise for cheap fruit, vegetables and flowers!
Eating out is a wallet workout
If you don’t like heights, skip Costanera Centre
Do cross the road when there are cars turning because they will always give way …
… but do not expect anyone to stop for you at a zebra crossing!
There are only three types of cakes: Manjar, Tres Leches, & Pie de Limon
About to walk into someone? Always pass to the right
Flipflops/thongs are only acceptable during the heat of summer
English “chavs” will fit right in
The best accompaniment to salad is lemon and salt
Salads are never mixed and especially never with cheese!
You will be asked for your RUT everywhere you go
Do not flush toilet paper down the loo!
Blog image kindly reproduced by Hoda Madi: https://www.facebook.com/Hoda-Madi-Artist-172734743080409/?fref=ts
